The Traditional Moroccan Attire: A Rich Cultural Legacy
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Moroccan traditional clothing is a vibrant tapestry of garments that have been preserved by Moroccans for centuries. This attire is a vivid expression of their cultural heritage, especially noticeable during weddings and religious occasions. Whether young or old, men or women, Moroccans take pride in their traditional clothing, which is an integral part of their cultural identity. Traditional dress is not just clothing; it’s a key component of Moroccan heritage and a symbol of the nation’s rich history and diversity.
The Caftan: A Symbol of Moroccan Culture
Among Morocco’s traditional garments, the caftan stands out as a symbol of cultural pride. Its timeless elegance remains unmatched, regardless of the fabric or design. The Moroccan caftan, known locally as "takchita," is renowned for its distinctive features and is often worn during special occasions.
Traditional Craftsmanship:
The art of making Moroccan caftans is deeply rooted in regional traditions. For instance, Fez is famous for its caftans with intricate embroidery and luxurious "sqli" thread, which is known for its shimmer. Rabat’s caftans, also known as "makhzani," are characterized by their loose fit, reminiscent of the garments worn by women of the palace in the past.
Moroccan embroidery, or "taznakht," is a celebrated art form. Each city has its unique style of embroidery:
Fez Ntaâ: Uses delicate threads of gold and silver, known for the famous Fez caftan.
Fez Hissab: Another form of Fez embroidery.
Rabat Raqqim: Known for its intricate patterns.
Tetouan Tariqa: Features distinctive motifs.
Chaouen and Sebou Zamouri: Each with its unique style and flair.
Cultural Influences:
The Moroccan dress has been shaped by a myriad of cultures throughout history. The Berber, Arab, Andalusian, Saharan, Islamic, and even Jewish influences have left their mark on Moroccan attire. The caftan, for example, dates back to the Almohad period, with over a thousand weaving and sewing workshops in Fez. During the Marinid dynasty, caftans were sent as gifts to Ottoman sultans and exported to Andalusia. According to some researchers, the caftan’s popularity in Andalusia was further boosted by the Iraqi musician Ziryab in the early 9th century.
Types of Traditional Moroccan Men’s Clothing
Jellaba (Jilbab):
The jellaba is a long robe that reaches the ankles, often featuring a hood called "qub." Summer jellabas are typically white or striped with yellow and white, while winter jellabas are made from wool and come in darker colors. Jellabas are worn on various occasions, including weddings, where they are often paired with a red Moroccan fez or a turban and traditional leather slippers called "balgha."
Regional variations of the jellaba include:
Fez and Azilal Jellaba : Known for their high quality.
Berber Jellaba: Typically white.
Wazan Jellaba: Renowned for its craftsmanship in the city of Wazan.
Gabador:
The gabador consists of two pieces : a short, collarless shirt that reaches the knees and loose-fitting trousers. It is typically worn in summer.
Men’s Caftan:
The men’s caftan is similar to the jellaba but without a hood and is distinguished by its superior fabrics and intricate silk embroidery. Historically worn by Moroccan sultans, it is now more commonly associated with Moroccan women.
Kandoura:
The kandoura is a short, loose-fitting garment with short sleeves, typically worn in summer.
Selahem (Salah):
The selahem is a long coat with a hood and no sleeves, used by various social classes in Morocco, especially in the Sahara. The Andalusians called it "bernous" and used it for travel. It is an ancient Amazigh garment.
Fuqiya:
A long shirt with sleeves, worn under the jellaba.
Mountain Qchaba :
Popular in northern Morocco, particularly in cities like Chefchaouen and Wazan, this garment is made of wool and differs from the jellaba in its shorter length and lack of sleeves. It is popular in winter.
Wazani Jellaba :
The Wazani jellaba is a notable example of Moroccan traditional wear, representing the city of Wazan’s cultural heritage. Known for its durability and craftsmanship, it has gained fame both within Morocco and beyond.
Draaa :
This is a traditional garment from southern Morocco, characterized by its loose fit with two wide side openings, typically in white or blue. It is often worn with loose trousers and a long leather belt called "lkachat." The black headscarf, or "litham," is worn for sun protection and modesty. On some occasions, desert dwellers may wear both white and blue draa.
Balgha:
Traditional leather slippers that accompany Moroccan attire, are usually plain or lightly embroidered. They come in various types, including Fez, Marrakech, and Souss.
Qandresis Trousers:
Named after a French colonial figure who was impressed by these trousers, the name "Qandresi" evolved from a mispronunciation of "Andre SA" by Moroccan traders.
Conclusion
Traditional Moroccan clothing is more than just apparel; it represents a rich cultural heritage that has been preserved and cherished through generations. Each garment tells a story of Morocco’s diverse history and the influences that have shaped its unique identity. From the elegant caftan to the practical jellaba, every piece of traditional attire holds significance and pride for the Moroccan people.