From Tea to Attay: How Moroccans Innovated Their Magical Drink
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Moroccan Tea
If fate ever leads you to Morocco, whether as a tourist or resident, your visit or understanding of the kingdom and its people will be incomplete without savoring a cup of famous Moroccan tea, with its distinctive froth and the embrace of mint, which will secure a place in your aromatic memory and allow you to enjoy its sweet taste.
Since tea entered Moroccan life through the doors of the sultans' palaces, it has become a daily ritual with a sacred status. Coffee pots were set aside, replaced by the teapot, and the sound of the first drops of tea hitting the colorful glass cups blended with wedding songs. Tea became a symbol of hospitality and generosity, to the extent that family gatherings felt incomplete without a silver tea tray around which everyone would gather, sharing stories and laughter. Thus, Moroccans' passion for tea reached such heights that they wrote poetry about it and sang songs in its honor, making it a companion to their gatherings and moments of joy.
Historically, the story of this drink's arrival is recounted by Abdelkebir El Fassi in his book "Tadhkira al-Muhsinin bi Wafayat al-Ayan wa Hawaadith al-Sineen," where it is mentioned that the uncle of Sultan Zaidan bin Ismail was the first to taste this drink after a Christian doctor described it as a remedy for an illness he suffered from after indulging in wine for many years. Although verifying this story's accuracy is challenging, it aligns chronologically with the time tea arrived in Morocco. Tea entered Morocco as tea, but Moroccans added their own magic to it, creating "Attay" with a distinctive taste that is uniquely Moroccan.
The History of Tea: A Storm in a Teacup
Morocco has always been an open window to Europe, and as winds of change swept through the continent, Morocco received its share. Dietary habits were no exception. After Europe opened its doors to new beverages from around the world, tea entered Europe, catering to the bourgeoisie’s fascination with Far Eastern products. It became a passing fashion in various European countries, except in England, which adopted it as a new dietary habit, replacing coffee on British tables and making tea a symbol of English culture.
Tea continued its journey to Morocco in the early 18th century, a century after its arrival in Europe. The newcomer entered Moroccan life through the palace of Sultan Moulay Ismail, initially as a medicinal remedy before being consumed as a drink like in Asian countries. Tea remained confined to the palace walls and was exclusive to the Moroccan ruling class for an entire century, becoming a gift from European ambassadors to the ruler. By the end of the 18th century, its consumption was still limited to the ruling elite but began to expand slightly to include the wealthy.
In the 1830s, tea moved from the royal court to the cities, then to the rural areas surrounding them, and by the early 20th century, it had reached most Moroccan households. However, even in the villages and rural areas, tea and its accessories were only available in a few homes, making Moroccan Attay associated with bonding and warmth.
Attay: Beyond the Table, Inside History
According to writers Abdel Ahad Sabti and Abdel Rahman Al-Khassasi in their book "From Tea to Attay: Tradition and History," tea played a significant role in many political and economic transformations in Morocco. In the 19th century, Sultan Hassan I used tea, sugar, and silverware as gifts to tribal leaders who resisted his authority or hesitated to pledge their loyalty. This strategy proved effective, allowing the sultan to extend his influence over these tribes without war, relying on the appeal of tea.
During the same century, Britain controlled tea distribution in Morocco, and Moroccans adopted the English practice of sweetening tea, adding mint as a Moroccan touch. Conversely, the sugar trade saw intense competition between France, Germany, and Belgium. After discovering that the French dominance in the sugar trade was due to Moroccans' preference for French sugar cubes, the Germans attempted to mimic the product, but their goods were held in Moroccan ports due to French consular intervention. This incident ignited a crisis that was only resolved in 1885.
The writers also mention that during this period, the British brought a large shipment of sugar and tea to the Ait Baamran tribe and made agreements with tribal leaders without central authority's consent. This prompted Sultan Hassan I to send his armies to the tribe and reassert his control.
Socially, the arrival of tea sparked sharp debates among Moroccan scholars. Some viewed the European sugar as forbidden, while others went further to reject the testimony of anyone who drank tea. This debate sometimes stemmed from economic or political factors rather than religious reasons. In 1904, during his pilgrimage, Sheikh Mohamed Abdelkebir Al-Kettani, founder of the Kettania Zaouia, visited Marseille, where the sugar exported to Morocco was produced. He saw this visit as akin to visiting enemy territory, believing that French sugar drained Morocco's resources that should have been used to fend off colonialists. Sheikh Al-Kettani's opposition to tea consumption extended to prohibiting his followers from drinking Attay and combating it in gatherings. Although this boycott movement did not gain widespread popularity, it represented a form of anti-colonial resistance.
In the Lore of Attay: Inherited Rituals and Recommended Practices
It is said that people follow the ways of their kings, and this applies to the king's customs being seen as aspirations for social advancement. Thus, the religious practices surrounding Attay were no exception. Moroccans embraced its rituals and ceremonies with grandeur, as practiced in the royal palace. Like tea-drinking customs in China and Japan, Attay in the royal palace was distinguished by unique rituals. An official overseeing tea preparation was appointed, known as "Moul Attay" or "Owner of Attay," with Ahmed Ben El Moubarak being the first to hold this position and gain favor within the royal palace.
The tea ceremony begins with preparing silver trays, where cups are arranged in harmony with the circular edge of the tray, with the teapot in the center. On a smaller tray, three boxes called "rabay" contain tea, sugar, and mint, which can be replaced with other aromatic plants such as sage, verbena, or lemon blossom.
Preparing tea in front of guests is not merely for show but an important tradition. The person preparing the tea is known as the "Muqeem," usually the head of the household, or, for special occasions, the oldest or most experienced person present. The tray is placed in front of the Muqeem, who is provided with a silver basin to wash his hands. The Muqeem takes a suitable amount of tea, which has become a familiar task, and places the tea leaves in the teapot. A little water is added to wash the tea leaves, remove bitterness, and clear dust, then the water is poured into one of the cups. Sugar is added, and the teapot is filled with boiling water and placed over the fire to boil. Mint is then added. The Muqeem pours a small amount of tea, tastes it, and adjusts the sweetness, pouring three or four cups back into the teapot to ensure the sweetness is balanced and the ingredients are well mixed. The tea is then ready to be served. It is poured gracefully from above, creating a foam that fills about a quarter of the cup, and the cups are distributed.
Thus, tea has traveled a long journey from its origins in China, passing through Europe before reaching Morocco, where Moroccans transformed it into Attay, their magical drink. They charm their guests with its rituals and have made Moroccan Attay an ancient witness to the stories that have woven the history of this country.