Moroccan Caftan: A Timeless Symbol of Elegance and Tradition
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The Moroccan caftan is a traditional women's garment renowned for its historical significance and cultural importance in Morocco. Considered one of the oldest traditional garments, its origins trace back to the 12th century during the Almohad dynasty. The caftan is a symbol of nobility, elegance, heritage, and identity.
Historical Origins of the Moroccan Caftan
The Moroccan caftan originated in the 12th century during the Almohad period. At that time, the Almohad sultans sought a majestic garment befitting the status of Moroccan royalty. This attire was crafted by combining traditional garments from Moroccan tribes with fabrics like silk and brocade made in Fes. Fes was renowned as the global center of textile production around 600 AH (1203 CE), with numerous textile workshops. Leon the African, in his book "Description of Africa," highlighted Fes as a major industrial city with numerous weaving houses and workshops.
During the 12th century, the Moroccan caftan was dark-colored with short sleeves. Men wore it with a black or dark woolen cloak called bernous. The front of the bernous was shorter than the back to facilitate walking or horseback riding, and it included a hood for winter warmth. Both the djellaba and the bernous were commonly worn by Moroccan men during special occasions like weddings, henna ceremonies, and circumcisions.
The Moroccan Caftan in the Marinid Dynasty
By the 15th century, during the Marinid dynasty, the caftan had become the quintessential attire for Moroccan sultans. It was also popular among women in Fes, described by Leon the African as a beautiful garment. Women wore it with a wide belt and paired it with other traditional attire. Historian Ibrahim Harakat noted that during the Wattasid era, it was customary to include Moroccan caftans in the bride’s dowry, a tradition still observed today.
The Mansouriya during the Saadian Era
In the Saadian period, this garment was named Mansouriya after Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour, who had it specially made in Fes. The Mansouriya consisted of two parts: a lower, thicker caftan and an upper, transparent caftan. Historian Ahmed Ben Khalid al-Naciri mentioned in "Al-Istiqsa" that Moroccan sultans kept their caftans in wooden chests.
The Caftan during the Alaouite Dynasty
During the Alaouite dynasty, caftans were an integral part of royal attire for palace events and ceremonies. Sultan Moulay Abd al-Rahman ibn Zidan recorded that Alaouite sultans preserved their caftans made of velvet in ornate wooden chests.
In the 17th century, the caftan was a loose garment made of wool, velvet, or other fine fabrics, covering the entire body and often adorned with gold embroidery. By the 18th century, it became ankle-length with side openings and resembled a coat with long sleeves, usually crafted from wool, velvet, or cotton and secured with a belt.
The 19th Century and Museum Exhibitions
In the 19th century, traditional Moroccan caftans were preserved in museums, such as the Oudayas Museum in Rabat. These caftans were open in the front, fastened with buttons and small rings, and featured side slits. They were often complemented by wide belts made from brocade or threads of silver and gold. Moroccan women also wore "Sharbila," a traditional slipper, with their caftans.
Global Recognition of the Moroccan Caftan
The Moroccan caftan embodies high culture and aesthetic refinement. It represents Moroccan traditions and has gained international acclaim. In the 1990s, the caftan experienced a global renaissance, thanks to Moroccan designers and international fashion festivals like "Caftan du Maroc" in Marrakech. This festival is a major national and international event, attracting designers from around the world. The caftan has been showcased in Paris, Turkey, Abu Dhabi, and Brussels, becoming a staple in global fashion. Notable designers like Balmain, Yves Saint Laurent, and Jean-Paul Gaultier have incorporated Moroccan caftan elements into their collections.
Conclusion
The Moroccan caftan is a timeless symbol of elegance and cultural heritage. Its intricate designs, luxurious fabrics, and historical significance make it a revered garment in Moroccan society. From its origins in the 12th century to its contemporary global presence, the caftan continues to be a celebrated piece of Moroccan tradition and fashion.